
After more than a month of snow, low temperatures and general winter malaise, I think everyone is looking forward to spring. Alas, winter has no intention of letting up, and it’s back to the kitchen to whip up some comfort food. Probably everyone with good intentions (health-wise) has fallen off the wagon by now, so this recipe for a perfect cheese souffle will probably hit the right spot! It’s a recipe by Gordon “You Donkey!” Ramsay, and it almost rivals my mother’s recipe (which I didn’t have at hand when I made this, but I’ll be sure to post it later). Now, souffles have a reputation of being tricky food; almost every chef has their version of the ‘open-the-oven-door-two-seconds-too-early-and-it-will-go-to-hell’ mantra. However, what people neglect to tell you is that when a souffle falls (which is caused by the cooling of the hot air in the souffle structure), it is easy to puff up again: just put it back in the warm oven again, watch it rise, and take it out again when your guests are finally at the table and ready to tuck in.
This recipe uses three different kind of cheeses. I used Gouda, parmesan and goat’s cheese, but you could also use gruyere or cheddar, for instance. Go with what your instincts tell you! (But leave that Swiss powdery cheese/horror out, it’s disgusting. You want cheese that makes you go ‘oooh!’.)
You’ll need:
- 75 grams of soft butter
- 50 grams of flour
- 500 ml of milk
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 star anise (can be left out if you can’t find any)
- 3 cloves (ditto)
- 1 bay leaf
- 6 eggs, separated
- 100 grams goat’s cheese (or gruyere, or whatever), crumbled
- 100 grams Gouda (or cheddar, etc.), grated
- 85 grams parmesan cheese, grated
- 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tbsp mustard powder (or use a bit of regular mustard if you don’t have the powder)
- juice of 1/2 a lemon
- (Gordon uses 100 grams of ripe brie for the top, I left it out. If you want to go overboard: just slice it up and go wild!)
First, you have to mix 50 grams of the soft butter with the flour (this is called a beurre manié, if you want to be all fancy about it). I used an electric whisk, but a balloon whisk should work fine as well. Make sure it is not lumpy. Put it in a bowl and set in the fridge to chill.
Heat the milk in a large saucepan, and add the star anise, cloves, onion and bay leaf. When it boils (and you have to watch that pan like a hawk: milk has the habit of boiling over when you turn your back on it for a nanosecond, so don’t be fooled by its innocent surface), turn down the heat and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool (occasionally stirring to prevent a skin from forming: it won’t matter for the recipe, but I have an irrational fear of milk skins).
Strain the milk (if it has a skin, it’ll be removed this way) into a large pan, and press down on the onion to make sure all the juices are extracted. Put the pan back on the stove and gradually add the beurre manié, which you have cut in small pieces (hopefully). Stir constantly, and if all goes well you’ll end up with a thick white sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Don’t be too generous with the salt: remember that the cheeses contain a fair amount of salt as well.
Leave the sauce to cool for 3-4 minutes, then add the egg yolks, the goat’s cheese and the Gouda, as well as two-thirds of the parmesan cheese. Stir well. Add the Worcestershire sauce and the mustard (powder). Check the seasoning. Gordon tells me this step can be completed up to two days before you plan to make the actual souffle, so if you have a dinner party coming up, you can stuff the mixture in a covered bowl in the fridge now and put your feet up. However, do make sure you’ll let the mixture come up to room temperature when you continue with the next steps.
Brush the insides of a souffle dish (mine was about 20 cm across) with the remaining 25 grams of butter (you used the other 50 for the beurre manié) and scatter the remaining parmesan cheese around the bowl. The bowl should have an even coating of cheese when you’re finished. The butter will help your souffle to rise, so don’t omit this step! Ground some black pepper in there as well. Put the bowl in the fridge.
Use a grease-free bowl to whisk the eggg whites. To make sure it is grease-free, coat the insides with the lemon juice. When the egg whites are sufficiently whisked (meaning you can hold the bowl over your head without the egg whites falling out), whisk around one-third through the cheese mixture you’ve prepared earlier. This will loosen it up. Very carefully mix the remaining egg whites through the mixture: you want a light and fluffy souffle, not a brick.
Spoon half the mixture in the souffle dish you have taken from the fridge. If you are adding brie, now is the time to put the slices on top of the mix. If not, you can just put the entire mixture in the dish. You can add some more parmesan cheese to the top, if you like (if you’ve come this far, why not go all the way?).
Pre-heat the oven to 200 degrees. Bake the souffle for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to around 180 degrees, and bake for 15-20 minutes more. The souffle should be evenly risen and slightly wobbly. If you’re unsure, just lower the temperature to 175 and leave in a while longer. Resist the urge to open the oven door every 10 minutes to check, this will surely cause your souffle to fall.
When everyone is sitting at the table, proudly present your perfect souffle! I usually serve this with a crisp green salad and some good crusty bread. Salted butter is very good with the bread, but your arteries will probably diagree. Best leave it for another day then…